What Is Are Bezel Diamond Ring Settings?

Bezel Setting

On your wedding day, your ring should dazzle along with your dress. But there are numerous styles to choose when it comes to engagement rings. How do you decide? Go contemporary and go big, with a bezel setting. Once considered old fashioned, today they are all the rage.

A diamond ring with a bezel setting has a sleek look that is designed so that the metal completely surrounds the diamond’s sides. Unlike other diamond ring settings, where the gem rests upright and exposed, with the bezel, the surrounding precious metal embraces the diamond.

Bezel engagement ring settings have been around a long time. But recently there’s been a resurgence of demand for the style. We’ll discuss not only what it’s about, but where it came from and if it’s the right choice for you.

Defining the Beautiful Bezel Setting

Unlike a protruding claw-like engagement ring setting, the bezel enfolds the stone. Your gem stays flush with the metal. The precious metal overlaps the sides of the stone. Your stone sits in a groove within the metal. The metal than engulfs the gem’s girdle and securely shows it off.

What You Should Know About Bezel Settings

The Bezel setting is the oldest technique used to show off a gemstone. It not only has been used in ancient times, but your great-grandmother’s engagement ring may have a bezel setting. With today’s technology, this vintage classic has turned into an engagement ring setting with a sleek modern look.

Is a Bezel Setting the Right Choice for Your Ring?

Your engagement ring’s gemstone is a major part of your forever ring. It needs to be protected. If you have an active lifestyle where your ring will be bumped or snagged a lot, you’ll want to avoid gemstones set in prongs. With the bezel, your stone is safely encased in the precious metal.

It’s the best ring setting for active lifestyles!

The bezel setting offers the best protection. This is because it covers more of the gemstone. Because your stone doesn’t protrude it’s not as likely to catch or be banged around. Go camping, garden, or play tennis with the comfort of knowing your stone is protected.

It’s a low maintenance and no-fuss way of having a diamond without the worry. So, if you’re always on the run, this is the engagement setting for you.

There are Different Types of Bezel Settings

Bezel settings have different shapes. The standard setting is called the closed setting, where the metal completely encloses the gemstone. The metal snuggly encircles the gemstone’s girdle. It is well protected.

But there’s also a partial bezel. The partial bezel only encloses the gemstone on two sides. The precious metal arcs between the center stone’s East and West side. This accentuates the diamond’s facets and allows maximum sparkle. The partial bezel is also referred to as a:

  • Semi-bezel
  • Open bezel
  • Half bezel

The styles of a bezel can be either modern or vintage. The modern style is smooth, while the vintage design has fine details and engravings.

What is the Best Diamond Shape for the Bezel Setting?

The best, and most traditional diamond shape for the bezel setting is the round cut. Its rim fits into the precious metal beautifully. It’s generally the most popular shape.

Coming in a close second is the princess cut. It’s also a popular diamond that is mounted in a bezel setting. Technically called the square modified brilliant; it’s shaped as its name says, is square.

The Pros of Buying an Engagement Ring with a Bezel Setting

The Pros of buying an engagement ring with a bezel setting are numerous. They include:

  • Security
  • Strength
  • Camouflages defects
  • Easy
  • Sleek

Security is Number One with a Bezel Setting

A major plus for the bezel is the security it gives your gemstone. It is probably the most secure way to set a stone. Unlike the prong setting, the bezel engulfs the diamond and creates a barrier. It’s highly unlikely this stone is coming out. It’s anchored in the setting. You won’t have to worry about losing it.

The Strength of a Bezel is Hulk-Like

A bezel setting resists snagging on items such as clothing. Because the setting is flush with the stone, it’s stronger and resists damage when it’s bumped or banged into a hard surface.  If you’re active, this is the setting for you.

The Ability to Camouflage Defects

The metal covers the rim or sides of the gemstone. This is a benefit if you have a stone that has some flaws that you don’t want to see. Just the surface of the stone will show. You may have a less than perfect diamond that you love and want to wear. This setting allows you to still show it off. But beware, if the stone has a flaw in the middle, it will still show despite the bezel setting. It’s not a perfect cover.

Easy to Care For

When it comes to keeping it clean, the bezel setting is easy. Unlike the prong setting, which always manages to have a string or hair caught on it, the bezel doesn’t catch anything. You don’t have to worry about it. It’s a lot easier to maintain. There aren’t any prongs that you need to watch out for. After all, a prong could break and risk your diamond. There’s no need to worry with a bezel setting. Take it to the jeweler once a year for a cleaning, and you’re good to go.

A Sleek Contemporary Look

If you’re into modern jewelry, then this setting is for you. Its low profile is sleek like a new Tesla. And like a Tesla is unique and sticks out from the crowd.

The Cons of Buying an Engagement Ring with a Bezel Setting

There’s always a downside to any decision. But the bezel engagement ring setting has very few cons. They include:

  • Diminished Diamond Size
  • Less Diamond Sparkle

Your Diamond will look smaller

There’s some debate on this one. Most would agree that a bezel setting makes your gemstone look smaller. The number thrown around is ten to twenty percent smaller. It makes sense. After all, the metal is hiding part of the diamond. The solution…have your future fiancé pony up for a bigger diamond.

The Diamond’s Shine is a Little Less Sparkly

One of the reasons a diamond sparkles so brilliantly is that light is coming in the stone’s sides. It’s then reflected out. Because the bezel setting blocks the sides of the stone, it can’t reflect light as well. This diminishes its sparkle. But if you go for a partial bezel, you will still have that sparkle. Remember, the partial is only wrapped on two sides.

How Do Bezel Settings Stack Up Against the Others?

When it comes to durability, the bezel setting is hands down the best. It will protect your stone better than any other setting. It’s also the most contemporary of all the settings. But this all comes at a price.

A bezel setting costs more than other settings. This is because each bezel must be custom made to the stone that will set in it. This takes a lot of skill on the part of a jeweler. Some jewelers won’t touch such a project. And if it isn’t done right, it can look like a socket instead of flush with the metal. The expertise and additional work increases the cost.

What to Look for When Buying a Bezel Engagement Ring

Usually, the advice in buying an engagement ring is to shop around. But if you’re going for a bezel setting you need to find a reputable jeweler. Making a bezel setting takes skill. You’re going to the expense of a beautiful stone; you want to make sure the setting is what it needs to be to show that stone off. Ask for references. Does that jeweler have pictures of other rings he or she has created? Do your homework. This is your forever ring, and you want a stunning setting.

In Vogue and Looking Chic

It’s the official setting of the day. That’s probably because despite it’s good looks; it’s durable and safe for any active lifestyle.  It’s old fashioned to some and stylishly modern to others. But to everyone, the bezel setting is a beautiful choice for your engagement ring.

Carl A. Jones, GIA GG

Carl A. Jones is a GIA Graduate Gemologist with over 20 years of experience in the diamond industry. He is an independent jewelry appraiser. He specializes in determining the value of diamonds and advising consumers on how to buy quality diamond jewelry.

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